Memories and Stories

Today was a good day. The water was calm like a transparent sheet. The only ripples made were from seabirds coming to a smooth landing, or taking off in flight to meet up with friends along the bay. Kris, Sam and I went on a little boating adventure to look for full crab traps. No crabs were to be found today, but there were numerous moments I was astounded by. Like the layers of green bull kelp glistening on the water's surface as we cruised between two small islets. The great bald eagle perched on a tree top, intently staring down at us, waiting until we pass to exhibit its massive wingspan and glide away into the distance. The young deer, creeping about the underbrush on one of the smaller islands, skillfully arriving there through a cold journey through the brisk waters of the inlet. I kept thinking to myself.."Why is it always the days that I forget my ultrazoom camera that I feel I see things like this and need it most?"

Then I realized this often happens to me as a reminder to live in the moment. To take these scenes and visions and lock them away in my mind's memory. They will forever be more valuable than a pretty picture. They can serve as a basis for reflection, sharing and stories. And what grande stories my experiences have been forming!

Reassurance

I just watched Avatar. Not on a big screen in a theatre with 3-D glasses on, but in the teen centre on a normal TV here on Haida Gwaii. I was hesitant to see this film the first few weeks it came out because of its following. Everyone who had seen it thought the world of it, and anyone who hadnt seen it, wanted to. I assumed it was because of the sci-fi and special effects. Aside from all that, this film stirred up emotions in me. Emotions that haven't been lit up like this in a few weeks, but now, there is this pain I feel within my soul. Apart from the cartoons, special effects, love story and action packed adventure, this film has a story line that I understand. This is what I've been studying this semester, and its so real. It hits home for me because this is what ACTUALLY HAPPENED. Here on Haida Gwaii, and in many other places across Canada and in the world. Colonization into "empty" spaces to conquer the unfamiliar and indigenous ppl and things on the new found land. Classify and dominate what is unknown and make the surroundings "civilized". Dig up resources from underground, cut down trees, overharvest fish and contaminate waterways. Do whatever it takes to make a buck, no matter whose home you are affecting and whose history and culture you're ruining.

I do not consider myself a cynissist, just a realist. This movie has reassured the drive in me to contribute to a just world-socially and environmentally.

New Experiences

These past couple weeks have been about new experiences. Trying out different activities and gaining novel perspective and insight into people, places and events.

Another amazing day on the water, paddling among the spirits of Haida of the past in the giant cedar canoe. This time it was in Bill Reid's masterpiece, Lootaa, the canoe that was carved for Expo '86 in Vancouver. After the event in the summer of 1986, the Haida wanted to reclaim the canoe back for use in Haida Gwaii. This was requested under one condition-that a team of Haida paddled the monumental cedar boat back through the coastal waters of British Columbia, a 600 mile journey that would represent the type of journey that was likely made over a century ago by their ancestors. A welcoming potlatch was held for the paddlers, as it signified a tremendous feat that should be celebrated. I was hounoured and humbled to have the opportunity to paddle in that same canoe, an important part of the history and heritage of the Haida.

Last week we also got to weave cedar with Gladys, a Haida elder who specializes in handy crafts made of soft and sweet-smelling yellow cedar, sturdy and robust red cedar and smooth, spiralled spruce root. She creates beautiful hats, flowers, mats and baskets. These objects are not only intricate and lovely, but sturdy and resistant to all types of weather. They signify another important aspect of traditional Haida culture, as these materials from the great cedar and spruce trees have been integral to the Haida way of life for centuries. I got to create cedar lilies and a small tree frog, both of which sit in my room at Gracie's and are a constant reminder of how lucky I am to gain great insight into activities that represent the great value of the Haida tradition.

Just this past weekend I went out deer hunting with Ruth, one of the academic programers with the local higher education entity, NorthWest Community College. I know what you're all thinking-what is a vegetarian doing hunting for deer??? Well, it has only been two years now that I have tried the vegetarian lifestyle, and what I have based this dietary decision on has been the fact that I feel alot of the meat we have available to us is mass produced in often unethical ways, with a real human-animal disconnect. I feel that so many people eat meat and never really take the time to see or think where it is coming from. Especially farmed animals such as cows, pigs and chickens aren't always raised responsibly, purely and with respect for the animal. Additionally, I don't always feel good eating things like seafood in places that it is rare or where a species is in decline.

Here on Haida Gwaii, deer is a special case, where it has been said by many people that I am actually doing a disservice if I DONT eat the meat! Deer were introduced to the islands decades ago, and due to the fact that they are introduced species with no predators, they have multiplied in great numbers and do plenty of damage to the local forest understory, especially to baby cedar trees that are trying to grow tall and strong in their youth. Because of the great numbers (there are an estimated 500,000 residents on island and supposedly 100,00o deer) it sits alright with me that I consume some deer meat while I am here on island.

After a 6 hour trip up-island in to the bush exploring and navigating for the slender animals, Ruth and I never even got the chance to shoot the rifle-surprisingly there were none of them in sight! I did get the chance to play a calling game with a couple does (via Ruth's wooden deer call), as well as some songbirds, and we got to get an up-close and personal glimpse of a goshawk swooping down and preying on a duck which was pretty cool! Other than that, there was plenty of thoughtful conversation flowing between us and I really appreciated the local knowledge I gained from connecting and conversing with Ruth. She really is a beautiful and engaging individual whom I feel I can learn alot from. I admire the way she lives off the land here with her husband-a veggie garden in a greenhouse, a pig pen in the works, hunting for meat and always baking her own bread, muffins and making her own juices.

This upcoming week will be full of more exciting and engaging events: the All-Native basketball tournament in Prince Rupert, guest talks with a CMT (culturally modified tree) expert and one of the most integral Native lawyers for gaining Haida rights in court, and I'm not going to lie....I'm VERY excited to watch the first Olympic men's hockey game tomorrow evening! I guess its all about balance eh?

A recipe for a great week

~One evening of Sierra Club discussion on Enbridge pipeline

~One open-house session for on-island ecosystem-based management land use planning

~Two afternoons of traditional forest walks and tree appreciation

~A full weekend of potlucks, "gumboot" dancing and beachside camping

Combine it all together with several instances of fabulous sunshine and a couple outstanding sunsets and its a recipe for deliciously successful week!

I continue to be inspired and humbled by the things I learn from so many incredible people and sources and am thrilled by the unique opportunities that have been thrown my way. Last Sunday, our group went out on an amazing forest walk where Kris, one of the local students took us along the Yakoun River and showed us some of the awesome old growth of the islands. We got dwarfed by one of the largest Sitka spruces left on Haida Gwaii and were able to scout out some prime fishing spots along the river where we will be taking some rods down in the next few weeks.

Come Wednesday, we had a couple guest speakers, John Broadhead and Keith Moore, come into our class and talk to us about the unique strategic land use plans being proposed for the island. This negotiation process is very special because it follows a recent reconcilliation between the provice of BC and the Council of the Haida Nation (CHN) to make joint decisions on all land use plans. The Haida is a First Nations group that has a philosophy and attitude toward the land that really resonates with me. In the words of the president of the CHN, "Haida culture is our relationship to the land. That's where our songs come from, that's where our language comes from, and our dances are all about the creatures that we share the land with." Additionally, in this land use plan, the Haida claim, "through the lives of everyone-people, seabirds and salmon, bear and many others-the food webs of the ocean and land are woven tightly together". Therefore, many of these new proposed land-use plans are ecosystem-based, to preserve the health of these complex relationships between land and sea. This is a unique process that is not seen in any other area in the province, or the country. It is ruffling some feathers of the forest industry, as many companies feel that the way the Haida would like to protect their land is "extremist" and leaves no room for resource extraction of any volume. One of the guest speakers, John Broadhead is a representative of Gowgaia Institue, an environmental-based organization and explained that the overharvesting of timber on Haida Gwaii in the past has devastated the land and quality of life of all walks of life on this island archipelago. In fact, the total volume of wood harvested on Haida Gwaii between 1979 and 2004 is estimated by the organization to be almost 50 million cubic metres of wood. These were often medium-good quality forests that are the preferred homes to salmon, bear, birds, cedar and medicinal plants. Now, the habitat no longer exists. That is why we see all the negotiations going on and the fight the Haida is putting up for proper and responsible land use this time around. It's meant to protect important wildlife and preserve ancient culturally modified cedars as well as spaces with abundant watershed and riparian habitats, as to not adversly affect health of fish on the island. I'm excited to see how these negotiations play out, which my class will be following closely.

On Thursday, Linda who works for BC Parks as a park interpreter gave us a tour of Spirit Lake, a local lake within a couple km of the Kaay center where we take classes. This walk was very signficant to my understanding of how the Haida really did and still do extract from the land with utmost respect and in a non-wasteful way that minimizes harm to inhabitants of the forest. Upon approaching each fern, moss, shrub, berry and tree, Linda conjured up an explanation and story for us of how the Haida people used the vegetation around them holistically and purposefully-berries were eaten and used for dyes, leaves were used for food, stems and roots were boiled for medicinal purposes, mosses were used for cushioning and moisture absorbants. Nothing was wasted and everything was extracted with an acknowledged respect. I really value and relate to this way of thinking.

Thursday night was great for me to execute some of my motivation and passion to take a stand against tar sands development in Northern Alberta and the proposed Enbridge Northern Gateway pipeline. This project is set to run across from Fort McMurray across the northern half of the province to Kitimat, BC. The dangerous pipe construction would then be met by over 200 supertankers a year that would somehow navigate through the narrow and delicate watersheds surrounding the Northwest coast of BC leading to Kitimat, which is not only dangerous because of potential oil leaks into the ocean but because of the noise pollution that would inevitably result from the tankers. The fact that the pipeline will cross over 1000 salmon bearing streams in Northern BC and it will devastate much of the Boreal forest habitat that houses many wildlife species and surrounds several First Nations communities, it is a big concern of mine and should be of concern to the province. Additionally, the noise pollution produced by the supertankers may negatively affect the imporant communication systems between marine mammals like whales and dolphins. Under the situation where there would be a oil spill or leak, that may be an devastating end to some of the healthy populations of coastal salmon, grizzlies, black bears and kermode (spirit) bears and the unique wolf population on some of the coastal islands that rely on the ocean for their food. I was invited by Severn Cullins-Suzuki (David Suzukis's daughter-exciting!!) to give a presentation of all these facts (and more) to the Sierra Club members here on Haida Gwaii. Of course I accepted, and I feel like this is just the beginning of a beautiful and powerful movement for environmental protection.

The weekend provided a time for relaxation, socializing and dancing. On Friday night, some classmates and I went to the local pub (a one minute walk from our house) where we experienced the first "club night" of Howlers Pub. I must say, it was fun to mingle with the diverse crowd of locals, but since I now know quite a few people in town, a few too many rounds of tequila shots were bought for me! Bad news! lol Regardless of the hangover I had the next morning, I jumped at the chance to go to a gumboot dance party in Tlell, one of the small villages just North of Queen Charlotte. Gumboots were the mandatory footwear and the DJ was playing lots of fun oldies that we could swing and jive to. Great Fun!! The best part of the night had to be the fact that we decided to camp out on a stretch of beach in Tlell, courtesy of our awesome new friends Kye, Luke and Max who took us there and provided great camping equipment. Not only did we have a fantastic night of jamming on the beach with guitars, African drums and harmonicas, with the waves crashing behind us, but we also got to roast marshmellows and sit around the fire talking, singing, smiling and laughing into the wee hours of the night.

I must say, it seems quite crazy to be camping out on the beach in January, but it seems representative of the amazing opportunities that are coming my way these days!

The Lands Where the Mountains meet the Sea

Haida Gwaii is an odd place. On a normal day, you wouldn't know the exquisite beauty that surrounds you. Upon arrival to the islands, if one of the locals were to tell you there are many a mountains just on the horizon, some snow capped, some rock and craggy, others covered in sitka spruce, old and ancient cedars and sturdy hemlocks, you'd simply scoff and say they were off their rocker. Most mornings start off with a thick fog and haze that surrounds the sleepy town of Queen Charlotte like a blanket waiting to be removed after a peaceful night's rest. Throughout the day, 4 seasons can occur, with pockets of wild winds, icy rain, thick pillowy clouds that keep the mild temperatures trapped among the island boundaries. Once in a while warmth finds its way through, as the Sun's striking rays may find their way to heat up the Earth it looks upon. But some weeks, especially in Winter, this can be a rarity. Haida Gwaii is noted as one of the rainiest places in BC and Canada, even the World. It's thought that some years, it can rain 300 out of 365 days in a year.

That being said, on a few occasions since being here, I've been witness to a few of the rare days. The days Mother Nature decides to lift her veil and reveal some pretty magical specatacles of her inner workings. As the Haida like to think of this island as the place where "the land meets the sea" and often speak of the beautiful ways the two are interconnected, I've been able to see exactly what they are taking about. The last two days have housed some of the most spectacular landscape images I have seen, I couldn't take my eyes off the horizon as I rode my bike home from school today. The way the sun dances along the water and reflects off the slippery crevices along the rocks and the way the golden embers light up the sky like a fire at night as she sets over the hills at dusk really is magical. As a fellowclassmate who is local here puts it, on sunny days like this, its like a "little slice of heaven", just for us.

Now I can see why people stay here for as long as they do. It may rain, the storms may be plentiful and abundant, but all that is worth the wait when the fog does dissipate and reveal whats behind the veil.

Sunday Family Feast :)

There's an old cliche that goes something along the lines of.. "Love and warmth make a house a HOME". Whether or not it's cheesy or over done, after a night like tonight, I couldn't agree more.

Inside the old wood panelled window that leads into the living room of Gracie's Place, the beautiful B&B we now reside in, a passing neighbour would have witnessed a wonderful display. Rich BC wine was being toasted over a local deer roast, sided with succulent baby prawns caught right off the bay in front of where we stood. A few types of freshly cooked bread-wholewheat rosemary, cornbread and cheese twists donned an edge of the giant cedar table, while slowly simmering chili awaited on our old gas stove.

Through dinner and into the hours after, my housemates and I shared life stories of triumph, heartache, funny stories of childhood mishaps and accounts into where we've been and where we dream to go. Towards the end of the night, as I was sitting with java in hand and the sweet melodies of Annesley picking at her acoustic guitar, with the faint yellow glimmer of anchored boats off in the distance, I smiled to myself.

I do miss my family back home, but I must say, over the next few months these people will do just fine!

What does a forest mean to you?

I've been instigated to ponder questions this week. Questions that were once quite clear cut (excuse the pun) to me. Ones that seemed to make sense. To an environmentalist, which is what I'd like to think is one facet of myself, I have always looked at forests as something to preserve, respect, and honour. Sure, we can extract, but under two important conditions: that it's not old growth and that it's done in a moderate and sustainable fashion.

The other side of the coin has always been portrayed to me in literature or in passing conversation with industry figureheads....forests are important for timber as a generation of income, some people's livelihoods depend on it, family run businesses mean the next generation automatically must rely on it to make their living in society. And yes, I've been able to see forests from their point of view for miniscule fragments in time, but then find myself reverting to back up my belief that in Canada we must moderate our timber extraction. Like any other natural resource in this country overextraction in the past decades have left us with large cutblocks and clearcuts, resulting in habitat fragmentation of animals, devastating landscape changes and a realization that this is not a infinite resource. The heavy logging in the 70s and 80s, particularly here in BC, has left its mark, quite literally. This is seen the most in small logging towns on the Northcoast of BC, Vancouver Island and here on Haida Gwaii.

I knew this coming into this semester, but my eyes were pryed open to it last night, when our class attended a land use plan town meeting in Port Clements, in the interior of Graham Island. I was expecting the typical town meeting type setting...a mayor, some local townspeople, some arguing and hot-headedness, disagreements, some humour possibly in there, and we retire to our homes. What we got was 2.5 hours of local townspeople-mostly loggers, fellers, tradespeople and farmers fearing for their livelihoods, their homes, their children. They expressed concern for their futures and childrens' future and the future of the island. The land use agreement was something that I would normally jump at supporting-it was an ecosystem-based management strategy to largely reduce logging to protect habitat of fish, wildlife, and plan for regeneration of over-forested areas.

Instead, I was quietly humbled by the experience. What if someone told you you could no longer teach your classroom as a teacher, or see your patients as a doctor, or fix cars as a mechanic. Imagine having to fear that you would suddenly be forced to scrounge to get food on your table for your children, and to be forced to learn new skills or adapt to a new way of living, when there is really only one way you know to live, and this has been the way of your family for decades.

This experience opened up my mind to new ways of thinking, new points of view to ponder. Thoughtful discussion everyday with my classmates over articles, intimate accounts of guest speakers' trials and tribulations are all shaping the way my mind is opening here on Haida Gwaii.

Dragon Boat Fun

Our semester group is now complete. We have a diverse group of new additions:

Heather-a 19 year old Environmental engineering student who grew up on Saltspring Island, but studies at Queens University. Heather appears to be quite reserved and in need of independent space like me, and opted for the other kitchenette suite tucked away. Heather is a twin, and small town girl, but a very positive addition to the crew.

Elisabeth ("with an S" lol)- Elisabeth is a lovably eccentric character. She is an obvious wanderer, who wasn't even supposed to be taking the course up until a few days before classes began. She was on a Greyhound, returning from Manitoba to Lakehead University, where she studies in Thunder Bay, ON when she decided that life needed her in Haida Gwaii....so she called her forestry program director at Lakehead and told them she wasn't coming back to study that semester! Meanwhile, she booked Greyhounds all the way to Vancouver and hopped on a flight that brought her to Masset, at the NorthEast corner of Haida Gwaii. After three full days on buses and an overnight at YVR, Elisabeth was still in good spirits when we picked her up at Masset airport. She gave us a hilarious rendition of her journies, and after living with her for the past few days, Ive realized the girl lives on coffee, cigarettes and 5 cent candies. She is a quirky one, but VERY lovable. She doesn't handshake, she hugs :) Elisabeth is now Ally's roommate in the upstairs, communal part of our lovely house.

Chris-a non-First Nations Haida Gwaii local, who is a special needs teacher and counsellor with the local highschool here in Village of Queen Charlotte. Chris has had some bad luck in the past few years with the unfortunate combination of an autoimmune disease coupled with a reaction to ibuprofen that ate away at his flesh and caused him to lose most of his eyesight and go into a coma. Despite having to endure skin grafts and numerous surgeries, Chris has perservered through it all, and is a confident and vibrant individual. The guy is one of the most talkative people I have ever met and is a wealth of knowledge about the island and Native ancestry!

Emily-Skye - a 21 year old anthropology major attending UNBC in Prince George, Emily grew up in Haida Gwaii, but moved out East to Ontario when she was in elementary school. She has always felt a great connection to the land and the people here and always knew she would one day make it back to the island. Even though she has a couple more semesters to go in PG, Emily is so passionate about Haida Gwaii and has a beautifully positive spirit about her.

Lynn- a First Nations local who grew up on the island, Lynn is the fellow classmate I know the least about, since she doesn't live with us or drive to school with us, but she works for a natural resource company-I forget the exact resource, but know she spends alot of time out in field, as she is constantly saying that she feels like the luckiest woman alive to be spending that much time in the bush. Lynn always gives great First Nation perspective into our class discussions thus far and I am excited to hear more about the history of this beautiful land.

Chris, Emily and Lynn all live in their own homes on the island, and thus are not residing in our cozy B&B.

The group of nine of us began classes this week. Our first 2.5 week module is on the politics of forest management. We have really delved into such questions as "What is history...?" and "What is wilderness...?" based on readings we have had to do. We basically ponder and discuss and share and interpret for 3 and a half hours per day on these type of abstract concepts. I have realized even in the past two days that this type of learning is invaluable and the intimate small group setting is really causing us to gain perspectives and viewpoints we never thought were possible.

Today at the conclusion of our class-i.e. intense chatting session- instead of hopping into our bus and heading home, we got invited by some of the box and paddle carving students at the Kaay centre to inaugarate the new dragon boats they have. Of course we jumped at the chance to get out on the peaceful and calm water lapping up onto the shores of our study hall. About 20 of us worked together to drag the boat into the glistening afternoon waters and piled into this large Native dragon boat, beginning the paddle out to Skidegate. After about a 15-20min paddle, we reached shoreline in front of one of the Council of the Haida Nation meeting buildings and began to salute the elders within the building by banging the butt end of our paddles in unison on the side of the boat (a typical gesture of respect to the elders). The elders waved back to us in acknowledgement, and we proceeded to return to the Kaay centre in a peaceful and content fashion. Again, once we were close to shore, we all worked together to get the giant boat back onto shore and I felt like I was thrown back a few centuries into the days when this was an every day occurence for great tribes to work as a team to paddle their way from one destination to another...exploring, transporting, escaping, searching.

Exploring the workings of another culture is a beautiful thing.

A beautiful revelation

As I was going for a jog along the coast of the island today, I had a quiet, beautiful revelation. In this life, I am exactly where I am meant to be physically, emotionally, spiritually and academically. I feel so grounded, level and at peace with my being and sense of self, I cannot even put into words the feeling of content that surrounds me. I feel really lucky and just thought I'd share it with all of you that I love.

Along my run, the sun parted from behind the clouds and the rays of warmth shone through onto a still and calm sea. I climbed down to an inviting rocky ledge that was layered in seaweed and moss and just watched...reflected...absorbed and smiled alot. Staring out into the ocean I saw so much life. Life in the form of a family of sea lions playfully bobbing up and down in the water, great blue herons wading at shore's side in low tide, beautiful spruce and cedar lining every side of the coast and the interior of many islands, mosses, lichen, algae and seaweed. And I began to cry.... I realized there is so much life here, just because it's not human life, people often claim that these small coastal towns are "deserted". It's a beautiful thing, having abundant, healthy and happy plant and animal populations around that have not been devastated by human interaction.

I look forward to many more of these beautiful moments.

Our own "One Million Dollar View"

Well here I am, sitting cozied up in my little suite for the next 4 months...and couldn't be happier! I am staying at Gracie's Place with the 5 other Canadian students from out of town. This lovely woman, Gracie who has lived in Haida Gwaii for the last 35 years of her life welcomed us into her country cottage-esque B&B and helped us get settled into various rooms and spaces that seemed to fit just perfectly for each of our personalities:

Sam-a 6'6", 21 year old Environmental Studies and Geography major from UVIC chose a room on the end of the house, with a cedar finish, a bed long enough to avoid the "feet hanging over the end of the bed" syndrome which he rarely is able to avoid because of his height. It just so happens this room has an outdoor "beer fridge" right by its door ;)

Annsely-a 19 year old Ecology major from University of Guelph chose a room with a hideaway bed, a big comfy couch in the middle of the room because she enjoys the feeling of being "tucked away" when its cold and rainy (which will be a trend in the next few months here). Her room opens up to a part of the patio with a fish bbq right outside.

Ally- a 21 year old Forestry and Natural Resources major from UBC who lives in White Rock with her parents and is used to sharing common spaces with several family members. She chose the double room in the large, upstairs part of the house, which offers a beautiful, open kitchen with an antique wood burning stove, a lovely comfortable living room, with an amazing reclining chair in front of a wide open window over looking the water

Me-a 24 year old Environmental Science major from SFU who enjoys living amongst others and being social with a house full of love and warmth, but also craves personal space, indpendence and a place for yoga, journal writing, reading, etc. So I chose the room at the end of the outdoor patio, that's tucked into the corner just enough that I feel protected from the elements, but still get a view of the water from my bed and access to beautiful deck space. I have my own kitchenette, bathroom (and shower), so I can be as involved or reserved with regards to the others.

The rest of the crew will be arriving over the weekend. I am truly excited for what the Village of Queen Charlotte will bring me in the coming months. Everyone that I have spoken to on my journey to the island today only has incredible things to say about the place. Especially ppl who have been here for years never seem to tire of the sweeping panoramics of seascape. Gracie herself claims that even being here for 35 years has not lead her to let one day of seeing these quaint ocean-side views slip her by without feeling thankful for living in such a magical place. Frank, a BC Hydro employee that we met on the ferry ride over also claimed that we are lucky....because we will get to live and experience these "million dollar views" for the next several months. Frank also told us him and his local house band, "The Charlotte Misfits" are playing AC/DC and Elvis covers at the local watering hole in Skidegate tomorrow night, so it looks like our "class" already has its first meeting lined up!

Other than having to repack one of my suitcases 4 times over because, like always, I overpacked and was 6 kg overweight in one of my suitcases and having quite the spill at the ferry terminal in Sandspit after not noticing the slimy moss on the landing, today went smoothly. I can barely sit on one ass cheek because of how hard I fell on the cement docking pad, but I have a smile on my face and a yummy halibut burger in my belly (locally caught and grilled to perfection). Yes, I know many of you are jealous and will continue to be jealous of all the fresh and local seafood I may get my hands on.

School starts on Monday at the Haida Heritage Centre at Kaay Llnagaay in Skidegate. I couldn't be more excited! :) To learn more about the adventure I have begun, check out: www.haidagwaiisemester.com